HI All,
There are, from my limited experience, three very different ways to overnight in Mana Pools: National Parks have 3 very basic brick under tile lodges that come complete with bedding and showers; the second option is to book your own self-catering campsite; or, you decide to splash out and leave the organisation to someone else by staying in an exclusive TCS (Temporary Camping Site). Each of these options have their place depending on one’s budget and love of the outdoors.
The Mana River Camp, set amongst the dominant Natal Mahogany trees (Trichilia emetica), is one such TCS and I was fortunate enough to spend a few very relaxed nights there this weekend on a “Famil” trip. Three years ago, Machaba Safaris took over the management of the original Trichilia Camp site laying up their own style with 7 very well appointed, luxury Sahara Tents.
Typically, guests fly in from Harare or Victoria Falls before being collected from the landing strip and taken to the campsite some 20 minutes away. The drive takes them through wide open spaces lined with plains game and Elephant feeding on the apple ring pods dropping off the iconic Faidherbia albida trees (Acacia Albida) . On arrival at the Mana River Camp, we were introduced to camp manager, Justin Mabhena, and his team who welcomed us with a frosty, cold drink in a very comfortable setting.
We were then taken to our individual, private, river-facing tents showing breathtaking views of the Zambezi River where we freshened up before lunch.
The spacious, central meeting area, set well away from the sleeping quarters, separates the open Mana Pools floodplain from the Zambezi. Wildlife can walk freely through the camp as Hippo and Elephant often do whilst the abundant birdlife merrily chirps their various calls in the background.
The best thing about staying in one of the Machaba Camps within Mana Pools (includes Ingwe Pan) is the allocation of an individual professional guide to each couple or group overnighting. The very high standard set by the Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association ensures that these guides are very knowledgeable about all aspects of our bush life from wildlife to birds, trees, insects and much more.
On our first afternoon we were taken to a remote site, well away from the main camp, for a few relaxing sundowners. Next morning we met the other guests at 5.30 for a continental breakfast followed by a very informative drive around the floodplain arriving back at camp just after 11 followed by a shower and a well-deserved brunch. Our logbook for the day included mention of the lion and wild dog we encountered during our mornings tour. In the afternoon we joined fellow guests from Germany to paddle lazily down the Zambezi in 3-man Canadian canoes.
Next morning we up at again at 5.30 to be taken for a long walk (9km) through a well treed forest overgrown with the iconic Faidherbia albida trees (acacia albida). Our excellent guide, Fisher, slowly took us along unmarked paths stopping every few metres either to recall wildlife incidents from the past or explain to us city-slickers just why certain trees or animals behaved in a particular way. Like the time he came across a group of banded mongoose that had killed a python they had found wrapped around a tree – they just started gorging themselves whilst the snake was still alive!
The best time to visit Mana Pools is over the next three months when large herds of antelope and their predators leave their dried out inland pans to drink from the large Mana Pools close to the river.
Highly recommended for that special three nights away from the hustle and bustle of Harare. Cheers Mike G.
PS1. Being a TCS means that they are only allowed to accommodate guests from the beginning of May until mid-November with the written understanding that MRC leave the area in the same unblemished condition, they found it – i.e. without a trace of any building or rubbish remaining.
PS2. I stayed in a Parks Lodge many years ago and, being an unusually hot Saturday, my partner and I left all the windows open whilst we had our siesta in the upstairs verandah. Our afternoon was then thoroughly spoilt by the mess left behind when we interrupted about 20 very scared monkeys roaming around the lounge.
PS3. Self-Catering Camp. This can either be in the central Nyamepi grounds or your own private one alongside a long drop. After a long testy drive from Harare, one arrives at the pristine campsite facing the daunting task of setting up tents and cooking a late lunch. The evenings are spent around the campfire ever on the lookout for passing Hyena or Lion.